How to Filter, Cool, Light and Power an Ikea Lack Enclosure

The Ikea Lack Enclosure is a very popular DIY solution developed by the maker community using a stock IKEA Lack table, plexiglass and open-sourced printed parts. To learn more about how to build the enclosure, here are instructions: https://blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/
Makergadgets
designed a DIY solution with instructions for adding control features key to a perfect printing environment: Recirculating filtration, Thermostat-controlled cooling w/additional exhaust filtration, bright LED lighting, AC and DC power connections and USB!

Build time: Approximately 2 hours

Parts List

  • W1209 Temperature Controller

  • AC-DC 12V Power Converter

  • AC-DC 5V Power Converter

  • AC Male power receptacle w/toggle switch

  • 3 Rocker switches

  • 24 AWG wires

  • 18 AWG wires

  • Bolts and nuts

  • 2 Hepa/Activated carbon filters

  • 12V 9733 Blower fan

  • AC female plug

  • Bright LED Strip

  • Clear acrylic logo

  • 4 connecting cables

  • AC Power cable

  • 3 male barrel jacks (ez connect

  • 1 female barrel jack (ez connect)

  • 2 female barrel jack (soldered)

  • USB Passthru plug

  • USB power plug

  • shrink wrap

  • STL files

You can find most of these items on Amazon or Ebay. We provide all of the necessary parts in a kit to make it easy to build (choose the panel if you want us to send you a precut panel too): Lack Enclosure kit

If you’d prefer to get a pre-built polished 3D Printer Enclosure with control system that’s ready to use, we have one for you here: Professor Enclosure

There are many different enclosures on the market but the Ikea Lack enclosure has proven very popular among the DIY community due to using off the shelf parts at a very low cost. Although it’s a great enclosure, it’s still difficult to add all the important components that a 3D printer enclosure needs: filtration, temperature control, power and light. We provide a way to do it with a central control location.

The Control Box

To begin, you may need to predrill the control box holes in cause the barrel jack connector’s don’t fit. Next, twist and solder the tips of the 4 black lines together on one end and connect them into the negative terminal of the W1209 control board. Now connect the red “T” wire into +12V and K1 and pointing left. Finally connect 1 single red line into “K0”. After all connections are secured, install the W1209 controller into the top rgiht of the control box with the smallest M3 black screws. Do not over tighten!

W1209 Temperature Controller

Push the 3 rocker switches onto the front plate of the control box. Once installed, you can connect the spade terminal of “T” wire from the Controller to the middle rocker switch’s top terminal (it’s good to open up the spade terminal a little first if it’s tight). Next solder the red multi wire to the bottom terminal of each rocker switch. Finally, take the multiwire switch and connect it to the positive terminal of the barrel jack easy connector then push the temperature probe of the controller through the hole at the top right of the control box.

Rocker switch power

Connect/solder the power to each male barrel jack easy connectors as shown in picture below. Use the 3 black lines to connect to the negative terminal of each barrel jack too. Clamp them all down with plastic printed clamps and 8mm bolts. Finally put little buttons on each button of the W1209 controller and close the control box lid.

Finalizing control box connections


Push the positive and negative 12V lines into the “+12V” and “GND” terminals and screw tight.
Push the red power line from the power receptacle into the “K1” terminal of the controller and screw tight.
Run the red and black lines from the heater into the plastic body and connect red line into terminal “K0”.

The Power Box

Install the 12V AC-DC power module on the left and the 5V AC-DC power module on the right. Connect them as shown with the arrows below. Push the passthru USB connector in the middle (glue USB passthru around the perimeter with hot glue to keep it secure).

AC-DC Power modules, USB passtrhu & power connections

Put a tiny amount of super glue along the edges of the clear acrylic logo and push onto lip of large hole. Make sure orientation is as shown in left picture. Connect AC power input connector w/rocker switch on front power plate w/8mm M3 countersunk bolts. Finally connect AC wires as shown on bottom right.

Power box — front cover

Glue small plastic lip on top of USB passthru and install cover.

Power Box

The Recirculating Filter and Filtered Cooler

Push the barrel connectorw with wires through both cooler and recirculating filter boxes, gluing them from the inside to secure them. Install blower fans with 40mm long m3 bolts and nuts.

Filter and cooler

LED Light

Install 4 small nuts onto LED light frame then slide light bar in.

LED Light strip

Final connections

Connecting the Power Box, Control Box, LED, Filtration and cooling

Next
Next

Why 3D Printers in Schools and Libraries Need Proper Enclosures: A Solution from Makergadgets